In the heart of Hackney, London, a new Italian restaurant, Auguste, has emerged, offering a unique dining experience that is both intriguing and somewhat enigmatic. Named after a clown, the restaurant's atmosphere and menu reflect a certain theatricality, with a nod to the iconic Edward Hopper painting, 'Soir Bleu', hanging on the wall. This painting sets the tone for the entire dining experience, capturing the essence of a tragic clown's life and the challenges faced by those in the hospitality industry.
Auguste is the brainchild of chef Mike Bagnall and general manager Dylan Walters, who have transformed the former Papi space into a hip, Abruzzo-inspired small plates haven. While the concept remains similar to its predecessor, the new menu focuses on arrosticini, tiny grilled skewers of meat, showcasing the live-fire cooking trend that seems to captivate London's culinary scene.
The Dining Experience
On a bustling Wednesday night, we arrived at Auguste to find a lively atmosphere, with a dedicated following of the old Papi crowd. The menu, although short and frequently changing, offers a taste of central Italy's Abruzzo region. We started with potato rösti topped with a decadent blue cheese cream, a dish that, while delicious, could have benefited from a crispier base to support the creamy topping.
The cured sea bream with puttanesca salsa was a highlight, although the salsa's heavy onion and pepper notes may have overwhelmed the delicate fish. The cappelletti in a clear broth was a standout, showcasing impeccable pasta work and a flavorful, if slightly salty, broth. The fresh asparagus with peas and wild garlic cream was a delightful spring dish, and the chicken saltimbocca, wrapped in prosciutto and sage, was the star of the savory courses.
A Collection of Ideas
However, the small plates format presented a challenge, as our meal felt more like a collection of loose ideas than a cohesive dinner. The arrosticini, while tender, lacked the perfect pinkness, and the dessert options, limited to two choices, were rustic and edible but lacked refinement. Despite these minor critiques, Auguste offers moments of culinary greatness, and its loyal fan base seems to appreciate the unique experience it provides.
Final Thoughts
Auguste is a restaurant that embraces its quirky nature, from its name to its menu. While it shows promise and has its moments of brilliance, there is room for improvement in the consistency of its dishes. Nonetheless, with its loyal following, Auguste is sure to continue captivating diners seeking a unique and slightly offbeat dining experience in the heart of London's vibrant culinary scene. Personally, I think it's a restaurant that invites you to embrace the unexpected and enjoy the journey, even if it's not always perfectly executed.
